Basics of lawn maintenance

Keep your lawn healthy with good housekeeping practices. You get a healthy lawn by properly performing the activities of mowing, watering, fertilizing, overseeding, topdressing, aeration and dethatching.

Several touches can be made to help the lawn through the winter without suffering too much.

Mowing

Mow the grass is high when dry.

• Mowing to a height of 6 to 8 cm (2.5 to 3 inches) promotes the development of an extensive root system in depth, gives a denser turf and allows the soil to retain moisture better.

Sharpen your mower blades in the spring and keep them well sharpened.

• The grass regenerates more quickly and easily when cutting the wire is clean and not torn.

Leave grass clippings on site.

• These residues are a good source of nitrogen for the slow release turf.

• If it rains a lot in the spring, remove too thick layers of grass clippings (more than 0.5 cm thick) to avoid choking the grass.

Watering

Water deeply but infrequently as possible.

• Put at least 2.5 cm (1 inch) of water. Measure the depth by placing a container on the lawn while watering.

• Water as needed, rather than according to a schedule.

• Excessive watering can cause adverse growing conditions aisni that disease problems.

• Consider the type of soil and landform. The grass that grows on a slope or in a compacted soil and end requires a lighter, more frequent watering.

Early morning is the best time for watering.

• This helps to minimize water loss through evaporation and wind action.

• Watering in the evening leaves the grass wet longer, which increases the risk of disease.

The grass growing near large trees may require more frequent watering because tree roots absorb much water.

A healthy lawn can survive for several weeks in dormant state.

• During periods of drought and prolonged heat, lawn may wilt, turn brown and go dormant. Common varieties of grass such as Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescue leaves grow green upon the return of normal humidity conditions.

Inspect the lawn to detect early any pest or any other problem.

• It may be difficult to distinguish damage caused by insects in a lawn in a dormant state.

Fertilization

Compost is a great fertilizer for your lawn adds nutrients necessary for plant growth.

• Apply it anytime during the season.

• Prior to seeding or laying sod, mix the compost to the soil or apply a thin layer raked over the existing lawn.

Commercial fertilizers generally contain three major nutrients.

• Nitrogen (N) to stimulate leaf growth

• Phosphorous (P) for the root growth

• Potassium (K) which is essential for stress resistance

The three numbers on the package are the proportions of these elements. for example, preparing a 21-7-7 contains 21% nitrogen, 7% phosphorus and 7% potassium.

Fertilizers, slow release of nitrogen is a good choice because they release elements uniformly. It is therefore unlikely that the excess fertilizer is leached out of the root zone.

• The ratio of NPK fertilizer lawn purpose is 4-1-2.

• The dose and timing of fertilization may vary depending on the soil type, the type of grass, terrain and weather conditions.

• a lower dose is generally used in spring and early summer at the beginning and the end of autumn.

• Organic fertilizers release more nutrients when the temperature and humidity rise. It is best not to fertilize the soil in hot, dry weather from mid-June to early August.

Make your soil a few years apart by a specialized laboratory. More to learn about the pH of your soil, it will tell you specifically what type of fertilizer and how to choose the dose spread.

The use of a herbicide-fertilizer combination product is indicated only if there is a widespread weed problem and a nutrient deficiency. Be sure to use according to the instructions on the label.

Overseeding and replacing turf

Most healthy lawns recover after being damaged. Depending on the type of grass, vigorous lawn will regenerate in areas sparse because of pests or other factors.

If bare areas do not regenerate quickly weeds can invade these gaps.

1) seeding practiced regularly keeps a thick lawn.

• The best time for overseeding is between late summer and early fall.

• This can be done at the same time dressing with compost or garden soil.

• Overseeding with appropriate species of grass is very important for lawns shaded areas.

2) The replacement of sod

• Cut about 2 cm deep dead or damaged section to remove it.

• Rake the soil and add a little fertilizer.

• Insert the new plate in the prepared section.

• Walk or roll it over to adhere the base plate.

While watering the new plantings or new plate until the grass is well established.

Aeration

Aerating your lawn will allow water, air and major nutrients better flow to the roots, which grow more easily, but in clay soils. The best time for aeration is at the end of the summer, along with overseeding and topdressing.

Signs of a lawn needs aeration

• The soil is hard and compact.

• The thatch layer thickens.

• Water does not penetrate well when you water the lawn.

• There is the presence of weeds such as knotweed and clover.

There are two types of mechanical ventilators:

• machines for strong teeth that pierce the ground

• machines that collect cores of thatch and soil

Small lawns can be aerated through shoes whose soles are spikes in 6 cm (2.5 inches).

Do not roll the spring as it may aggravate the problems of soil compaction.

Stubble

Thatch is a layer of tough roots and dead grass that accumulates on the surface. In a healthy lawn, insects, earthworms, beneficial fungi and other microorganisms break down thatch and aerate the soil.

Overwatering, an excessive nitrogen fertilization or frequent use insecticides and fungicides can reduce populations of soil organisms necessary to prevent thatch buildup.

A stubble of a thickness greater than 1 cm (0.5 inches) can prevent water, air and nutrients to the roots, house insect pests and cause disease.

• Remove excess thatch with a rake or cultivator.